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Steam Fixing Acid Dyes on Silk Fabric

Jacquard Silk Colours Box SetChoosing acid dyes as your medium, rather than iron fix silk paints for silk painting techniques, will produce more vibrant and intense colours. The dyes penetrate the fibres and are locked within the fabric through the steaming process, ensuring greater wash and light fastness. The results of this process far outweigh any inconvenience.

We offer two ranges of liquid dyes which are ideal for silk painting, these include Dupont Steam-fix dyes and Jacquard Silk Colours. Alternatively, acid dye powder can be made into a stock solution and used for silk painting (see how). It is however, difficult to maintain a consistency in colour unless the exact quantities are used each time.

The first thing to know about steam fixing is that it is a 'dry' process. The dye is bonded to the fabric at the temperature of steam. The fabric itself must be kept dry throughout the fixing process, any water in contact with the painted areas will cause the colours to run or smudge.

Expensive equipment is not necessary to steam fix your work. A pressure cooker is useful for small pieces, and a bamboo rice steamer fitted over a saucepan of water can be used very effectively. The use of a large, specially designed steamer is only necessary if you are fixing longer lengths and quantities.

To Steam Fix your Work

  1. First make sure that all the painted surfaces are completely dry. Lay the work flat on a piece of paper. The purpose of the paper is to avoid any contact between layers of the painted silk and to prevent gutta, where used, from sticking to the next layer. Lining paper will do for small items, but it is fragile and may rip, allowing contact and transfer of the dye between layers. Special steaming paper is advisable and is significantly stronger.
  2. Fold the packet gently to fit within the steamer leaving a small space around the edge; this is the point at which tears in the paper can occur. Now wrap the packet in aluminium foil. Remember water must not get into the packet, so ensure the edges are sealed tightly, and any steam condensing on the packet in the heating up period can not run inside and ruin your work. Large rolls of painted fabric can be wrapped in cling film to keep out any water.
  3. Run about 2 cm of water into the pressure cooker and put the pack inside. Keep it well above the water surface by placing it on a basin. Put a further disc of foil over the pack to act as a shield from any drips of water.
  4. Seal the lid, without using the pressure valve, and raise to the boil over 15 mins and steam gently for 45 minutes. Allow to cool and open carefully. Steaming over an open pan will take up to 2 hours. The steaming paper can often be reused, but the foil may well leak and allow water in to ruin your next project.

Solvent Based Gutta or Water Based Outliner?

Clear solvent based gutta is a latex rubber which penetrates the fabric to create a barrier to prevent dye colours from running into each other. This creates an outline around elements of the painting as with this flower. After steam-fixing the dyes, the gutta is slightly sticky and can be removed by soaking the item in white spirit and rinsing well or by having it dry-cleaned.

Clear water based outliner works on the same principle as the solvent based gutta but washes out readily once the dyes have been steam-fixed. Coloured water based outliner, however, needs to be heat-fixed with an iron prior to steam-fixing the dyes.

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