|
Shibori, the ancient Japanese technique of fabric folding
and dyeing has been brought right up to date. Traditionally
indigo
was used to create patterning. However, using modern dyes,
discharge agents and fabrics you can easily develop complex
patterns. Tying and clamping, dyeing and discharging,
re-dyeing
and heat setting the fabric creates a new and visually satisfying
richness of colour and shape.
Tie dyeing (or Kumo Shibori) is a fun and simple technique
which can be used by children to decorate and pattern t-shirts,
bedding, table linen, scarves and more. This tie dyed fabric
was created using Procion dyes by Jo Barrell (the Jacquard
Tie-dye Kit is an excellent way to experiment with
this technique).
The following hints and tips suggest some ways for you to
develop your own Shibori patterning techniques.
- Silk
fabric is unique; it can give fine and complex
creases which follow the pattern of the dyeing. Using acid
dyes which require a heated dye bath, sets the tie-dyed
creasing. The resulting folds, creases and puckers can be
left soft or enhanced by couching with wire yarns, for example. Jacquard
Acid dyes give a choice of 40 pre-mixed vibrant
colours, and are ideal for this technique.
- Polyester
is ideal for 3 dimensional Shibori techniques by including
marbles or coins. It can be dyed using disperse
dyes and moulded with heat.
- There are a huge range of folding, clamping and tying
techniques to give specific patterns to the finished cloth.
The quickest and easiest patterns are still made by folding
and then clamping the cloth (Itajime Shibori), ruching along
a plastic pipe (Arashi Shibori), or tying up points of fabric.
Other methods are smocking with running stitches, scrunch
up and bind (commonly known as tie-dye - Kumo Shibori),
tied in small hard items, dried beans, marbles and nails.
It is important when tying to ensure that the fabric bindings
are tight, otherwise dye will penetrate underneath and alter
the pattern, and so a yarn that shrinks has an important
use.
- After the first round of dyeing you can resist again (with
wax or corn dextrin) before dyeing or discharging. After
each round of dyeing leave the fabric to air dry completely,
all the way through the folds, before unbinding.
- If you colour the fabric with indigo, Fast Black K, MX
Fibre Reactive Procion dyes or Deka L dyes, then the dissolvable
yarn we supply will save hours of unpicking.
The stitches will shrink tight at 40°C and then dissolve
at 70°C, giving more time for creative work.
- Discharging
pre-dyed materials gives a dramatic result. We stock a silk
habotai fabric, chiffon and viscose/silk velvet, all of
which have been dyed with a dischargeable black dye to add
to the range of fabrics for etching away and colour discharging.
The patterning passes through, browns and beiges depending
on the time the discharge paste is left in place.
Before dyeing, it is important to check whether the
item is 'Prepared for Dyeing' (PFD) or requires scouring
to remove any grease, oil or starch. Run a few droplets
of cold water onto the fabric. If they soak in quickly,
no scour is necessary. To remove starches, size and oils,
add 5mls of Synthrapol (a non-ionic detergent) along with
2-3 litres of water for each 100gms of material. Stir
gently over a 15 min period, and then rinse thoroughly
in warm water. It is possible to use household detergent,
but the alkaline residue may affect the final colour or
wash fastness.
Visit the World
Shibori Network (WSN) (or UK
branch) for more information about this stunning
craft technique. |