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Fabric artists today spend as much time taking colour out
as putting it in. This gives their fabrics a richness that
is only obtained by putting this extra thought into the finished
article.
White fabric can be dyed with a wealth of dyes such as Acid,
Fibre Reactive Procion MX and Deka L dyes, natural plants
such as indigo and chemicals like Fast Black K, iron and tannic
acid.
Dischargeable
Acid Dyes and Illuminating
Acid Dyes increase the range of patterning and
effects available. The dyes work like this; the dischargeable
acid dyes have a low resistance to bleaching and are easily
removed from fabric while the illuminating dyes have a high
resistance to bleaching. The image shows discharge printing
on dischargeable
black velvet.
The dyes offer an interesting and varied technique. Fabrics
can be painted or dyed with the dischargeable dyes which are
readily removed with discharge paste. This alone offers a
variation on the resist technique. Combining discharge
paste (formosul and indalca), or Jacquard
Discharge Paste, with an Illuminating dye has the
effect of replacing the ‘bleached’ out area with
the colour from the Illuminating dye. After steaming and drying,
the fabric is washed in cold and then hand hot water to remove
all surplus dye and chemicals.
Another method of discharging is to make a discharge paste
from 1 part soda
ash to 4 parts spectralite
and then applying heat by ironing. This gives you time to
watch the discharge process and stop it when the fabric has
discharged to a colour that you want. For example, black will
go through different phases of colour loss and you can stop
the process at any time by rinsing the fabric in cool water.
 Dischargeable
Black Fabrics
These black
dyed fabrics can be used readily for printing with
discharge paste. The discharge paste can be combined with
Illuminating Acid dye which replaces the dischargeable black
dye. There is a choice of silk/viscose Velvet, Gauze Chiffon
(pictured) and Habotai 8mm.
Irons
Modern irons are very limited in the highest temperature
they can achieve. This may be below that required to set dyes
or discharge. If you are finding problems with this, it may
help to check through garage sales for an old iron for your
work.
Remember
Before dyeing, it is important to check whether the item
is 'Prepared for Dyeing' (PFD) or requires scouring to remove
any grease, oil or starch. Run a few droplets of cold water
onto the fabric. If they soak in quickly, no scour is necessary.
To remove starches, size and oils, add 5mls of Synthrapol
(a non-ionic detergent) along with 2-3 litres of water for
each 100gms of material. Stir gently over a 15 min period,
and then rinse thoroughly in warm water. It is possible to
use household detergent, but the alkaline residue may affect
the final colour or wash fastness.
Safety
There is no substantiated evidence of a causal link between
exposure to these dyes and any chronic or fatal illnesses.
Both the acid and fibre reactive dye families have a considerable
track record, of use in industry in considerable quantities
and in a less well controlled environment in the crafts.
It is clear that there are sensible precautions to be taken
when handling dyes and chemicals, particularly as powders:
- Avoid inhaling dusts, they can produce an asthma type
reaction. People with known respiratory problems should
not handle synthetic dyes, and particularly the fibre reactive
dyes, in powder form. A dust mask should be worn when working
with the powders or exposed to an aerosol from spraying
dye solutions made up in water
- Avoid splashing solutions into the eyes, swallowing the
materials or prolonged skin contact. A simple 'non-contact'
approach (most people use gloves to avoid dyeing themselves)
plus normal, good, hygiene is sufficient precautions for
the occasional user
- Store in clearly labeled containers well away from children,
pets and foodstuffs. Treat dye powders and solutions with
the same caution as domestic poisons (eg strong cleaners,
bleaches or medicines)
- Dispose of spent solutions containing residues of the
dyes responsibly. Dilute and pour onto waste land or into
the sewage system. They have no known effect on the environment
when used in the quantities recommended in the literature
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